Exploring Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio: A Journey Through History

Itinerary:

• GET YOUR GUIDE From Rome: Bagnoregio & Orvieto Day Trip with Wines & Lunch $258 for 2 ppl

  • Meeting place: 0720A Piazza del Popolo, 00187 Roma RM

• Dinner: Ai Tre Tartufi

Civita di Bagnoregio has a rich ancient history dating back over 2500 years. Originally founded by the Etruscans, it was strategically positioned along an important trade route. Over centuries, seismic activity, landslides, and erosion gradually led to its isolation.

Every day begins with breakfast—no exceptions, even when I travel. Whether joining a tour or exploring independently, I always make time for a small meal and a strong coffee to kickstart the day. In Rome, finding an open café before an early tour can be unpredictable. Despite TripAdvisor listing a nearby café as open, we arrived to find it preparing to open but not taking customers. Fortunately, another café along the route to Piazza del Popolo was already serving, ensuring I didn’t have to start the morning without my ritual.

Exploring Piazza del Popolo

Rome is a city I’ve visited multiple times, yet its wealth of history, art, and culture ensures there’s always something new to uncover. Our tour began at Piazza del Popolo, a place I had only seen in passing but never truly explored. This city demands time, and even a week isn’t enough to uncover all its layers.

The morning rain made for a quiet and peaceful stroll to the piazza. Sitting inside a small café, watching the drizzle outside, was an unexpectedly calming experience before arriving at a square bustling with travelers. Numerous tour groups convened there, creating an organized chaos where guides helped guests find their assigned tours. Unlike the intimate group we had the day before, today’s tour was a full-sized bus tour with every seat occupied.

The Journey to Orvieto

Our guide was engaging and full of historical insights about Rome and the destinations ahead: Orvieto and Civita di Bagnoregio. The drive from Rome to Orvieto took about two hours. Expecting picturesque Tuscan landscapes, I was instead met with scenery that felt underwhelming. Approaching Orvieto, I anticipated a dramatic medieval town, reminiscent of Siena; however, Orvieto felt less visually striking than anticipated.

A Brief Stop in Orvieto

The Etruscan heritage of Orvieto is significant, and the tour provided enough historical context to understand its importance. However, it did not include a guided visit to the town’s key landmarks. Instead of a structured tour of Orvieto, we were given an hour of free time to explore on our own. While this allowed for independent wandering, the short time made it difficult to fully appreciate the town’s ancient charm and historical architecture.

One of Orvieto’s architectural highlights is its stunning Gothic cathedral, which requires an entry fee to access its full interior. However, a small chapel, accessible through a side entrance, offers a quiet space for reflection at no cost. Beyond the cathedral, the town features a variety of ceramic and craft shops, showcasing beautifully designed pottery and housewares.

Lunch at a Family-Owned Winery

Lunch was at a family-owned farm and winery, a common stop for several tour groups. Thankfully, our group arrived first, avoiding the rush that followed as other patrons filled the restaurant. Before dining, we took a short tour of their wine storage area, which felt like a peek into an ancient Tuscan winemaker’s cellar—sadly, the tour was rushed.

The meal was exceptional, and their cheeses stood out. Served alongside fresh, farm-to-table dishes, these cheeses were some of the most flavorful and rich I’ve ever tasted. Given the presence of sheep on the farm, I assume they were sheep’s milk cheeses, though I never confirmed the specific varieties. Their depth of flavor made me wish I could bring some home, but I wasn’t sure about U.S. customs regulations for dairy imports.

Transition to Civita di Bagnoregio

After lunch, guests had the opportunity to wander parts of the farm, though the wine cellar remained off-limits.

Our next stop was a chocolate retailer, serving both as a brief souvenir shopping opportunity and a chance to use the bathroom facilities before continuing the journey. At this point, I realized I had misunderstood the itinerary based on our guide’s explanation during this half of the drive. I had assumed we would be exploring Bagnoregio and only viewing Civita di Bagnoregio from afar, but in reality, Civita was the true destination.

Switching from our large tour bus to smaller shuttles brought us closer to Civita di Bagnoregio. As we reached the final drop-off point, the guide announced that we would be crossing the pedestrian bridge—a moment when I fully grasped that we weren’t just admiring Civita di Bagnoregio from a distance, but stepping directly into its history.

Inside the “Dying City”

From a viewpoint, Civita was mesmerizing—perched atop its isolated cliff, like something out of a fairytale. But the approach was more than just scenic—it was a trek. I hadn’t dressed appropriately for the elements, yet skipping it was not an option. If Civita looked this breathtaking from afar, experiencing it firsthand was a must.

Walking through Civita di Bagnoregio feels like stepping into a living museum—where history isn’t just observed but fully experienced. Perched atop a fragile tuff hill, this ancient Italian village stands as a testament to resilience, with its medieval stone structures enduring centuries of erosion and time. Strolling along its pathways, crossing the iconic footbridge, and wandering within its historic walls offers an immersive journey through Italy’s past.

In 2025, Civita di Bagnoregio is a candidate for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List, hopefully cementing its status as one of Italy’s most treasured destinations.

Reflections on the Day

That is why I’m drawn to history—it reveals the resilience, ingenuity, and creativity of those who built in challenging times yet forged lasting legacies. Their work, embedded in these enduring structures, is more than a display of skill; it’s a reflection of the lives they led, the obstacles they overcame, and the mark they left on the world.

The day began with uncertainty and unmet expectations, but as it unfolded, the experience became richer, culminating in the extraordinary visit to Civita. This final stop transformed the day, making the journey worth every moment.

Ending the Day in Rome

After an afternoon of fluctuating energy levels, I arrived in Rome feeling famished. We were dropped off at Piazza del Popolo, where taxis are readily available. Wanting a convenient option, we headed back to Piazza Navona for dinner to stay close to our hotel. Luckily, I had already earmarked several restaurants in the area, including this front-facing Piazza spot with strong reviews.

Dining at a Piazza-front establishment can be hit or miss—you often end up paying for the view rather than the quality of the food or service. This restaurant, however, delivered on good food, great customer service, and knowledgeable staff who were attentive without being intrusive. It was a satisfying way to end the day.

📍 Follow along for more recommendations and insights into Italy’s most captivating destinations!