Easter Morning in Rome: Mass, Pastries & One Airport Misadventure

Itinerary:

• FCO 1540 > SF

• Leave hotel 0800A- pleave luggage with front desk

  • Breakfast - Giolitti

• Easter Mass - Basilica di San Silvestro in Capite - 10A Easter Mass

  • The basilica is officially the church for people of the English language in the diocese of room, both residents and visitors.

• Leave hotel by 1130A for airport

The Basilica di San Silvestro in Capite is a historic Catholic Church in the heart of Rome, originally built in the eighth century as a shrine for relics of Saints and martyrs from the catacombs. It is dedicated to Pope Sylvester I and serves as the national church of Great Britain in Rome.

Our official last day in Italy! Thankfully, our direct flight home wasn’t until the late afternoon, which gave us the perfect window to attend Easter Mass in Rome. But first—breakfast. We had already picked out two possible cafés on the way to the church, all of which were just half a mile from our hotel.

As we headed out, we unexpectedly passed by Giolitti’s—once the pre-eminent gelato spot in Rome. In a snap decision, we ditched our breakfast plans. For me, it was a nostalgic stop, and since they were open and completely empty, I asked Darwin if we could have breakfast there instead. To my delight, they were selling Colomba di Pasqua—both classic and pistachio flavors. I had planned to buy these Easter breads at the airport so I wouldn’t have to repack them, but I’m so glad I bought them here. I even grabbed a pistachio sfogliatella to enjoy later at the airport.

Easter Mass at Basilica di San Silvestro

I was mentally prepared to attend Mass in either Latin or Italian, so language wouldn’t have been an issue. But in researching churches near our hotel, I discovered Basilica di San Silvestro, which was described as offering an English or mostly English-speaking liturgical Mass. It’s known as a welcoming space for foreign travelers.

The portico leading into the main church was fascinating—complete with displays of catacomb-era artifacts. The atmosphere was reverent and unique.

The Mass itself was lovely. The priest, who I believe was Welsh, led a surprisingly brief Easter service—only about an hour long. One unexpected moment: he asked for volunteers from the congregation to do the readings. I wasn’t prepared for that! Back home, Easter Mass is long—anywhere from an hour and a half to nearly two. Knowing how long Easter Mass could run, we figured we might need to leave partway through. So we chose seats near the back, close to the aisle for a quick exit—that’s why I didn’t volunteer. I was definitely tempted, but I kept thinking I’d rather play it safe than risk being late to the airport if anything came up. Turns out, the mass ended up being just as long as a regular Sunday service—made me genuinely regret not participating.

If you ever find yourself in Rome on Easter, I highly recommend attending Mass here—and if they ask for volunteers, say yes. It’s such a meaningful way to connect with the moment.

Airport Expectations vs. Reality: A Comedy of Errors

We arrived early at Fiumicino Airport and went straight to process the VAT refund, since I had purchased several items that qualified for a tax-free refund. Compared to my last attempt from my past travels—when I couldn’t even locate the kiosk—this experience was much smoother. Refund counters were clearly marked and conveniently located both before and after check-in, which made the process efficient and stress-free.

A few key things to keep in mind:

• Have all your receipts ready; they should be neatly filed in a VAT envelope by the shop

• Shops in Italy may use different VAT refund companies, and I noticed at least two in use

• You’ll need to present proof of your flight details at the time of submission

• Have the credit card you used for the purchases readily available. If you used Apple Pay, they’ll still require the actual Apple Card credit card number on hand

After completing the VAT process, we proceeded through check-in, customs, and immigration, all of which went smoothly. Once inside the airport’s main hub, we found ourselves surrounded by rows of luxury retail shops—but hardly any food options in sight.

Following our usual routine, we decided to locate our gate before eating. Getting there meant hopping on a shuttle train. But once we arrived, we were greeted by just two coffee kiosks and a small café—none of which offered a real meal. That’s when I realized we had definitely missed something. I had no idea where the main food court was. Was it upstairs in the main terminal? I tried Googling it—no answers.

With over an hour to spare, I dragged Darwin with me, convinced we could find the food area if we just took the train back. I didn’t think it would be a big deal. But Darwin warned me, “If we leave, we may have to go through security and customs again.” I pushed back—“airports don’t work like that.” And yet… this one did.

We hopped back onto the train shuttle, assuming it would drop us near the main terminal——or at the very least, somewhere that allowed us to simply walk back to the main terminal, where all those luxury shops were located. That was the assumption. But instead, it took us on a full loop right back to the security checkpoint, to get right back to the train shuttle, and back to our gate.

Honestly, I still have no idea what the layout of that airport is supposed to be. I tried to find a map online, but came up empty-handed. I just don’t get why the layout was designed in a way that prevents easy movement between wings or terminals.

That whole mix-up ended up taking more time than I expected—and we still hadn’t had lunch. What made it all the more frustrating was that we had already seen how limited the food options were near our gate, which is exactly why I was so determined to get back to the main terminal. I’ll admit, the detour was on me, and it definitely cut into what could’ve been a more relaxed, low-stress wait before boarding. Live and learn, right?

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